Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and tourists alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive list of global cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it becomes part of a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "stands as proof of its deep-rooted food heritage and lively food ecosystem," as stated by a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this historic city arrives as little surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the limelight for what has consistently shaped its essence: an immense love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a continued discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and taken to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on countless corners, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known gems that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and complicated. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but note that their younger generation do not want to take up the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people globally to discover these narratives and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
